BAWC Forums

210 is pretty normal for newer vehicles

It's only showing "210" because it's the middle of the gauge. My Stingray would be locked in at 220 when it was up to temp, regardless of any outside conditions or how I was driving. 220 was the middle of that gauge. The digital performance gauge would show anything between 190 and 210 or so. Analog gauge never budged.

The analog gauges are meant to be really conservative and purposely vague.

You don't need to panic until the needle swings into the upper 1/4 of the range, or the cluster starts showing AC OFF or ENG HOT messages.

My Subaru made it into the 220s a few times when towing across the country. Nothing to worry about. New vehicles can handle it better than old.

I got my Stingray to just over 240 when my radiator fan failed in construction traffic outside of Indianapolis. There was a known bug with the fan controller in 2014. Finally found a place where I could park for a minute and shut the car down to 'reboot' it. Fan came on screaming when I started it back up. But it cooled right down and it was absolutely fine from that point until the day I sold it.

[quote=""Jeff V.""]Until you can pull the actual digital temp from the ECM, don't worry about it unless it starts creeping up towards the red. I did a little reading on it and it looks like the trucks have the same vague analog gauge that my Stingray had.[/quote]

Thank you. Hasn’t done is since. So I was prob over reacting.


Coop

[quote=""DCIV""]So I was prob over reacting.


Coop[/quote]

So just being your normal self then

[quote=""aaronatstate""]So just being your normal self then [/quote]

Yes. Yes.


Coop

Made it. Trailer dropped off. I would say I am .45 done as still need to load the model A one day. Don’t know what day that will be.


Coop

Nice. Load her up.

[quote=""ChargerX3""]Nice. Load her up.[/quote]

The father in law is coming up tomorrow and also I’m not really allowed to bring it up because we are here “for family, not the car”. Lol. It will prob be 6 days till I load it.


Coop

“We don’t talk about grandpas car”.

[quote=""ChargerX3""]“We don’t talk about grandpas car”.[/quote]

Pretty much. But to be fair I do have a way of obsessing about things. So it’s for the best.


Coop

[quote=""DCIV""]Pretty much. But to be fair I do have a way of obsessing about things. So it’s for the best.


Coop[/quote]

We haven't noticed

[quote=""Chris GTO TT""]We haven't noticed [/quote]

It’s a good thing and a curse. It makes me complete tasks. It also consumes me till I figure it out.


Coop

Is there an ideal height the tongue of a trailer should be?


Coop

Height compared to what? The simplest answer is you want the trailer as level as possible from tongue to tail when loaded.

Lowered the weight distribution hitch all the way down. Made the trailer perfectly level. Also the harbor fright grease gun actually pushed grease like it was suppose to. Put new covers as well because they were all ripped and slung grease over the wheels.

The front is still two inches higher than the rear. I wish I could make the torsion bars take up more slack. They don’t seem to take up enough. But I had it in when it was up one, and lower one. About the same amount of force to put them on.

Oh well, Tahoe is gonna hate it’s life going back to TN. Just gonna have to take it slow.


Coop

Eh it will be fine

You probably don't even need the weight distributing bars on without the car in the trailer. It'll likely ride more level without them - you are probably fighting the level with the bars.

You also don't want the bars to lever so much that they start taking too much weight off the rear tires of your vehicle.

Here's a decent video on how to get a good setup. Measuring the front and rear ride-height of the vehicle before and after is a good way to verify that you've got the right preload on the hitch with the bars.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkewkvU8Ot8&t=358s