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Their inspection hours are 9-4 I like going there because it's less than a mile from home, and I don't worry about driving it around without a license plate. If I had known it was going to be this much of a hassle I'd have bought a temporary permit for it. If I had a permit I'd drive it to work and let the shop across from the office inspect it. When I take cars there, I just park it on the street and let them take it whenever they have a gap between other jobs.

Vira might be able to take it over there Tuesday if she doesn't get tied up at jury duty too long. But I want to be convinced it won't leave her stuck, blocking one of their service bays. I may just wait until next Saturday. In the meantime, I'll do some short drives up and down the street to see how it's behaving. It'll give me a chance to fix the high idle too.

[quote=""Jeff V.""]With all due respect Coop, you only get called on the accidents where there are injuries.[/quote]

you are correct. You would be amazed what "injures" people these days lol. but you are correct, I prob only go on about half of all car wrecks.


Coop

Swapped out the IAC tonight. The one that was in there was definitely bad. The white plastic part almost looked burned. Very strange. Fortunately we have a box of them. It idles around 1200-1500 now, but nothing like the almost 3k it was before. I haven't set the timing or the base idle, so there's still room for improvement.

I took it for several trips around the block and shut it off every time I got back to the house. I restarted every time, but it's still hesitating. Definitely not confidence inspiring, and it's not even that cold yet. It's really weird. The pickup battery is in it right now. The batteries from both trucks are ~4 years old. They've both got ~12.4 volts with everything off, and this one at least drops to mid 10s while cranking. Once it's running, it charges at a nice 14v. The alternator is very obviously new. The starter seems recent. It's a lot cleaner than anything under there, and has a reman sticker on it. I also tried it with a fully charged jumper pack on it. That didn't change anything.

About the only thing I haven't changed is the starter relay. The new ignition switch will be here tomorrow.

Check out the video and let me know what you think. You might need to turn the volume up a little to hear it while it's cranking. Youtube was still chewing on it while I wrote this post, so it might not be available right away.

There is no relay. On the bright side, that doesn't leave much to troubleshoot...

Slow crank... It voltages check out and there's no voltage drop in wiring or connections is almost always a weak starter

Voltage at the starter only showed a 0.1 drop from the value at the terminals.

I've got a nearly new reman starter I pulled off a junkyard car a couple years ago. The 3S and trucks use the same starter. Maybe I'll swap it for the hell of it. I don't even need to jack it up

[quote=""Jeff V.""]Voltage at the starter only showed a 0.1 drop from the value at the terminals.

I've got a nearly new reman starter I pulled off a junkyard car a couple years ago. The 3S and trucks use the same starter. Maybe I'll swap it for the hell of it. I don't even need to jack it up [/quote]

That's pretty good.

I had a vr4 starter in my Swift for a few weeks whole chasing an intermittent no crank.

Just for laughs I went outside to start it before I went to work. We got down to freezing, and there was frost on the windows. It started better than any of the attempts last night

I now know the rear window defroster works.

Check the CCA on the battery, not just the voltage?

The one in my Jeep that was causing problems had the right volts but the CCA was shit. Couldn't start the Jeep and couldn't run the winch for more than a few seconds before dying, but when hooking up the voltmeter said 12.something volts.

New battery and starts up every time now and can run the winch no problem.

I thought of that, which is why I went out to start it when it was really cold. If the CCA was down, it should be even harder to start at 32 than it was at 50. But it was easier. It makes no sense.

Only thing I can figure is the cold caused some loose tolerance to close up. Whatever it was, I'm still going to replace the ignition switch and starter.

I'm definitely agreeing with the starter being the problem.

Try using a new batter, or jump your battery from one of your good cars. It appears that its not getting enough power to turn the motor over, or a poor connection somewhere. Check the leads at the starter. Mine were a little loose.

If all is the same there, then look at another starter. My new unit worked like piss until I broke it loose and left it cranking for about 45 min throughout the night. New, reman, they all can be crap.

Ill have to post up a video of how mine starts now. I dont get that pulsating in the dash lights, or the fight to crank over.

My pickup started nice and smooth. So did my Stealth for that matter. Vira's VR4 has a slow crank, but I've got a suspicion that's also an old starter. The battery was recently replaced.

Vira had some time today so she took it over for inspection. They failed it over a fucking exhaust leak between the cat and muffler. I guess I didn't seal it up tight enough when I installed the muffler.

I'd have taken it down and welded it, but the entire exhaust is one hacked up, welded piece after the manifold flanges. Well, at least I know now rather than finding out on Sat and having to wait even longer.

Still really pisses me off though.

Failed over an exhaust leak? Was it a substantial hole?

I don't know yet if it was just the gaps between the original pipe and the reducer, or some bigger gap I missed. Like I said, the whole thing was a pile of scrap pipe rigidly welded together. So it wouldn't surprise me if one of the old welds broke while I was forcing the Lancer muffler into place.

It didn't sound like it was leaking when I was driving it the other night, but I was admittedly more focused on the electrical stuff.

I'm really getting pissed at the state too. I can't find any way to get a temporary operation permit so I can legally drive this fucking thing. How in the hell am I supposed to validate repairs and legally get it to an inspection station? Or is that only something available to businesses?

I'd just drive it to work and let the shop here take care of it but I don't want to risk a ticket for driving it with no plates or registration. I'm trying to do this the right way, and they're not giving me the tools to do so.

She made it sound like there were several leaks in the pipe, and to replace the whole pipe. Referred to the extra noise and smell.

Yeah, I'd love to replace the whole thing. But you can't buy an exhaust as a kit for this thing, and since I can't legally drive it, I can't take it anywhere to get one fucking made.

I'd love to make one myself, but I don't have the time to go through trial and error to teach myself.

I should just do like all the deadbeats do and just slap on one of my old plates and take my chances. Fuck trying to play by the rules.

The stuff you guys in inclement weather have to bear is beyond me. No wonder why i register all of mine out of state where they dont care about emissions, safety, or high registration fees.

[quote=""Jeff V.""]Yeah, I'd love to replace the whole thing. But you can't buy an exhaust as a kit for this thing, and since I can't legally drive it, I can't take it anywhere to get one fucking made.

I'd love to make one myself, but I don't have the time to go through trial and error to teach myself.

I should just do like all the deadbeats do and just slap on one of my old plates and take my chances. Fuck trying to play by the rules.[/quote]

You can't weld a new pipe between the cat and muffler?

Maybe you should spend some time with dad welding Sat before you do the Volvo timing belt.