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Guys, I have an EGT sensor that keeps pulling out of its threading. I have tried several liquid welding options, but so far haven't had much luck. Does anybody have a specific product that they would recommend?


I think TIG/MIG welding in a new bung would probably be my best option. Unfortunately, I don't weld. More unfortunately, I can't seem to find anybody local who will do it - even exhaust shops won't do the work. So for now, that leaves me with the liquid welding option.

I have tried JB Weld (rated up to 500*F) , Inferno weld (rated up to 2000*F), and some generic exhaust repair from Advance Auto (rated up to 1600*F). Believe it or not, the Advance Auto stuff held the longest. It lasted for about 1 month. Is there anything else I should try?

There's gotta be someplace in your area that will. Hell...if you can send it to me I'll weld it on.

yea, no liquid anything is going to hold that in place.

[quote=""Terry""]There's gotta be someplace in your area that will. Hell...if you can send it to me I'll weld it on.[/quote]

I appreciate the offer, but I'm not pulling a header just to ship it to ya.

The one shop that said they would do it wouldn't weld without the header out of the car. I'd be damned if I'm pulling the header for this bung.

[quote=""Hans_GZP""]yea, no liquid anything is going to hold that in place.[/quote]

That's what I was afraid of. I had luck with that one generic epoxy, but it didn't last for much more than a month.

This is going to sound odd, but the way to keep it in there is to lubricate (use engine assembly lube) the threads, tighten it, drive the car, and re-tighten it while it's still hot.

See, friction in the threads is what is keeping you from tightening it far enough where the expanding/contracting metal won't back it off again. The assembly lube will ease the friction enough so you can get it on tighter. Also, make sure there is no corrosion on the threads (maybe a good idea to retap the threads to clean them).

Parts of our motors are recommended to be assembled using this method in the manual too. Same properties apply.

[quote=""Monochrome""]This is going to sound odd, but the way to keep it in there is to lubricate (use engine assembly lube) the threads, tighten it, drive the car, and re-tighten it while it's still hot.

See, friction in the threads is what is keeping you from tightening it far enough where the expanding/contracting metal won't back it off again. The assembly lube will ease the friction enough so you can get it on tighter. Also, make sure there is no corrosion on the threads (maybe a good idea to retap the threads to clean them).

Parts of our motors are recommended to be assembled using this method in the manual too. Same properties apply.[/quote]

That won't help in this situation. Both the EGT sensor and the header threads have stripped to the point where you can push the sensor in by hand.

[quote=""Hannibalzero""]That won't help in this situation. Both the EGT sensor and the header threads have stripped to the point where you can push the sensor in by hand.[/quote]

Ow.

In that case, yeah it's gotta be replaced.

[quote=""Monochrome""]Ow.

In that case, yeah it's gotta be replaced.[/quote]

Well, that just pisses me off. Installed the first sensor into the header, and the threadings got screwed. I the replaced the EGT. The new one misthreaded as soon as I tried to install it. Pretty cheap material for being $70 per sensor.

Oh yeah, and the rear sensor uses the same exact fitting. That EGT screwed into the header perfectly fine.