Re: Setting Shaft End Bearing Preload - Jeff?
Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 2:38 pm
FWD or AWD?
Do you have the factory manual for the FWD, or the Getrag manual for the AWD?
The procedure is in there.
In a nutshell, you disassemble everything, and remove the races from the case. Remove the shims. If you need help removing the races, heat the case up with a heat gun, or if it's clean, an oven. Aluminum expands more than steel, so when it's hot enough (couple hundred degrees) the races will just fall out.
Install two pieces of regular solder under each race. I do them one at a time, since it's a pain in the ass to do more than one. Gently tap the outer race down onto the solder, just enough that it keeps it from moving around, but not so much that it crushes it.
Reinstall the shaft you're working with, install the case, and torque the case bolts to spec.
Now, disassemble it again, remove the race, and measure the thickness of the solder with a micrometer.
If the spec for that bearing is .10mm, and your solder is 1.15mm thick, you need 1.05mm worth of shims to get it into spec. You may not get it exactly right, but that's why they give you a range to fall into.
Repeat the procedure until you have everything within spec.
As for pressing the bearings back on, I have a 20 ton press. But I've also rebuilt 60 of these things, so I have a few toys
If you don't take it to someone who has a press, you can use a hammer and a length of pipe. It's a pain in the ass to do it that way, and it's kind of rough on the parts.
Do you have the factory manual for the FWD, or the Getrag manual for the AWD?
The procedure is in there.
In a nutshell, you disassemble everything, and remove the races from the case. Remove the shims. If you need help removing the races, heat the case up with a heat gun, or if it's clean, an oven. Aluminum expands more than steel, so when it's hot enough (couple hundred degrees) the races will just fall out.
Install two pieces of regular solder under each race. I do them one at a time, since it's a pain in the ass to do more than one. Gently tap the outer race down onto the solder, just enough that it keeps it from moving around, but not so much that it crushes it.
Reinstall the shaft you're working with, install the case, and torque the case bolts to spec.
Now, disassemble it again, remove the race, and measure the thickness of the solder with a micrometer.
If the spec for that bearing is .10mm, and your solder is 1.15mm thick, you need 1.05mm worth of shims to get it into spec. You may not get it exactly right, but that's why they give you a range to fall into.
Repeat the procedure until you have everything within spec.
As for pressing the bearings back on, I have a 20 ton press. But I've also rebuilt 60 of these things, so I have a few toys
If you don't take it to someone who has a press, you can use a hammer and a length of pipe. It's a pain in the ass to do it that way, and it's kind of rough on the parts.
.