Question about my crank pulley....need some help

[EricVR4]

To make a long story short, about a year ago, the pulley bolt got loose somehow and started backing out and I didn't catch it in time, so it wobbled enough to sheer the roll pin in half....I ended up putting a new pin in the sprocket and got a used, but still in good shape, pulley and put that on. Tightened it back up, and used some thread lock to make sure it didn't come loose again. Fast forward to a week ago. I got the car put back together and noticed the pulley start to wobble a little bit after about 10 miles of driving. I never took the pulley off while doing work on the car, only the a/c belt, the compressor, and the alternator.

Anyways, I got the pulley off a little bit ago. The bolt was somewhat loose....it hadn't started backing out, but it wasn't the 130 lbs/ft tight....or whatever the manual says it should be at (I didn't have an air compressor when I put the pulley on from before). Everything seems fine, the roll pin is ok, the pulley is fine, but the sprocket has a little scoring on the outside face. Not sure if it's from the time before or from this time.

Anyways, whenever I put the pulley on and ready to bolt up, I can still rock it the tiniest bit in two directions (opposite from one another). It doesn't want to sit flush on the sprocket. I'm not sure if it's supposed to be like that until I tighten it all the way with the bolt, or if it should sit 100% still even without the bolt (that would make the most sense to me....which is why I think that's the cause of the wobbling). Can anyone remember how tight the pulley sits over the sprocket before you put the bolt in and tighten it down all the way? And if it shouldn't be moving at all, what do you think could be causing it to not sit flush?

Also, once I get everything back together, what's the best way to tighten the pulley without air tools? I need to get it as tight as possible so I can run it up to a shop and have them tighten it with their impact.

[ccrunner84]

Leave it in first when you turn it off? Or would it be reverse... those would be the first things that come into my mind. Someone might want to confirm that its OK to do that though.

[Tujin]

Put it in fourth or fifth, clutch out, have a friend stand on the brakes.

[Gray Haze]

[quote=""Tujin""]Put it in fourth or fifth, clutch out, have a friend stand on the brakes.[/quote]

By stand, he means put the pedal through the floor board.

[EricVR4]

Cool, thanks.

Anybody know about the other problem? Should I be able to move my pulley at ALL once it's slid over the sprocket? Cause I can rock it back and forth in two directions just a LITTLE bit.....but it seems like any bit is too much, which is why I think it's wobbling in the first place.

[EricVR4]

Yeah I know. It's like the sprocket is out of round or warped or something. Which would suck....because then all that shit has to come off and be replaced

[Hans_GZP]

The sprocket probably wore out on the first round of the pulley falling off. They are usually a tight fit, but once the pulley falls off the new pulley will never fit tight to the sprocket unless the sprocket is changed again. It's a crap shoot if the bolt will back out again or not.

[EricVR4]

Dammit. I really hate these cars

New timing belt, tensioner, sprocket....what else?

Ahhh, all that stuff only had like 10k miles on it

Edit: Can anyone grab the part number for the sprocket for me (92 VR4)? I'm at work right now so I don't have CAPS. I'm gonna go ahead and order everything off partsdinosaur I think. Timing belt, tensioner, tensioner bearing, and idler bearing for $172 plus whatever the sprocket costs

[Hans_GZP]

MD152167

[EricVR4]

Gracias

[Hans_GZP]

Grassy Ass? j/k