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That sounds like what my car was doing when the IAC was going out. Easy test with multimeter, take it out and see.

Easy test with multimeter, take it out and see.

But I just swapped one in that tested fine (~30ohms over all 4 coils) and the light is still on.

:d unce:

[quote=""Gatecrasher""] :d unce:


[/quote]

So the ISC and IAC are the same thing? My bad then.

I hate it when people use two different acronyms for the same thing.

Yeah...I'm a newb and a :d unce:
But damnit! I'm trying!

[quote=""lawdogg""]lol!

just drove to get lunch ... sometimes it works, idles around 1k, sometimes it doesn't, idles at 600ish. no CEL this time, though.

it must be going bad. this is the 2nd IAC i've bought that turned out to be bad. [/quote]

Gah! But if you tested it, how can it be bad???

How about the wiring going to it?

I'd check out the wires going all the way back to the ECU.

Got anyone around that would let you test your ISC on their car? Or borrow a known good ISC to test on yours?

Dunno. It's easy enough to pull it out and look at it though.

If you wanted to make the trip up here I have about 4 in various cars we can try.

Terry

[quote=""lawdogg""]I am fairly sure my harness is good. Nothing looked amiss when we were dropping in the new engine ...

What I am worried about is the ECU -- I have read that a bad IAC can potentially toast some capacitors. Would the first bad one have toasted it enough so that the working one won't function correctly? Is that even possible?[/quote]

Starting at the negative battery terminal, follow the black cable with a yellow stripe to the 10mm bolt on the firewall labeled with the letter E. Remove that bolt, clean that cable and (this is the thing you need to do) clean the smaller connector that is shared with that bolt. You might need to use sandpaper.

After you got everything back together, examine the back side of the ISC connector for any wires that have split open or might have come loose.

I'm guessing you know how to pull the ECU and examine it. It's not the caps that overheat from a short in the ISC, it's the drivers. The damage will be obvious.

If your harnesses were fine, you battery light and parking brake light wouldn't be dimmly lit all the time.

The O2 peaks are just from you letting off the gas... or are you getting those readings at WOT?

Just spend the $140 and get a new damn IAC... stop being the typical cheap mitsu owner

Used parts like that are just other people's trash

Invest in a new shell of a car haha... can't get any more rusty