BAWC Forums

In a truck I'd want to be closer to 12.5 in case you are pulling something or crawling around muddy roads, etc. More thermal safety with a richer AFR.

[quote=""mjannusch""]In a truck I'd want to be closer to 12.5 in case you are pulling something or crawling around muddy roads, etc. More thermal safety with a richer AFR.[/quote]

Agreed. Also note, you may also want to go slightly richer than 12.5 at peak TQ, also for safety.

Good point. Probably wont tow anything but I may toss in a couple heavy loads into the bed (motors, dirt). Last pull I was around 11-12 afr so I still have a little more to lean out.

Another obstacle I'm running into now that my tune is getting better is 3rd gear pulls. Im starting to get some slip in the clutch when I'm up in higher MIVEC revs. Its a new Centerline stage 2 Clutch too. Probably doesn't help that I'm running it through a heavier drivetrain, LSD, and 31's.

Update:

The Max has been getting more and more difficult to cold start. Played with trims earlier and it seems to help a little, then didnt. Weather got colder and for a short while the car started much easier. Now its just bad.

See video:

https://imgur.com/0LMk69X

Again this is running off a 3000GT SL Ecu that is tunable.

Could use some ideas to start tracking this down.

I changed the warm up trims on mine. Dramatically, like no extra fuel added.


Coop

I think mine are too lean. My O2 has to warm up but typically reads 18-19 once it actually tries to start and idle.

Swapped out the MAF after I started to think about it some more. Cold start issue went away. Must admit this is the first Mitsubishi MAF I’ve seen fail.

[quote=""ChargerX3""]Swapped out the MAF after I started to think about it some more. Cold start issue went away. Must admit this is the first Mitsubishi MAF I’ve seen fail.[/quote]

Mine died on my VR-4, I don't remember what it did or was that caused the failure.

Update:

2nd maf (same part #) appears to be showing the same symptoms. In all fairness it worked fine until I went to the local pick n pull this weekend and left my lights on for a couple hours. Yea, came back to dead battery and had to get a jump from a booster pack. From then on its been super hard to start. Like 5 min or more of off and on cranking.

I dont know what is up. Does it have something to do with the truck previously being a trash can maf and me having to wire back in the additional lead? Its worked great for several years.

Thinking back, I was using the EVO maf and it performed fine. Im using another Mitsu maf, but one that isnt as common. Thinking I might need to give a 3s maf a try, or go back to the evo for a bit to see if that fixes it.

Its just wierd.

Have you tried disconnecting the battery? I know the memory on those ECUs isn’t like anything today but sometimes they do funny things when they see low voltage.

Worth a shot a i guess. Although the ECU would likely be the culprit. Im running a 98 SL IIRC.

Spent about an hour this weekend working on the truck again. Traced out all the electrical connections under the hood and realized something. The harness for the CAS had a small rub through on as well as another harness next to it. For some reason I mounted them on the back of the intake manifold pointing up. Well they rubbed on the hood and I can only imagine they grounded out. Causing my ecu to not see signal, hence no start.


See the far back left corner of upper intake with the 2 harnesses pointing vertical?




I proceeded to bend the bracket over fully and for the last couple days she starts right up. Its also nice because she would idle rough, kind of like a V8. Now she is buttery smooth.

Glad you tracked it down!

Only downside to custom builds. You have to reengineer everything and then keep coming back around to make sure you took everything into account.

A guy on the MM facbook page has this cover. I love it! Its all Stainless Steel and has some great tech in it. They are ~$4k and have a long backorder from South Africa.

That’s really good looking too.

Coop

Yea it’s got that slight retro feel but in a good way.

Trucks been fun to start driving again this winter. I did start to develop an issue. Well, while driving the one day i noticed a faint smell of melting plastic. Turns out it was the wire going to the ignition switch that meets at the base of the steering column. I took it apart and cleaned it and it never quite got that bad again, but it can get hot to the touch.

I swapped out the ignition switch this week and the problem didn't go away. I'm wondering where this solid black line leads under the dash?

You can see some of the melting here. Far right lead.

That odd.


Coop

poor contact at some point or just too much current. once the pins have been damaged both sides need to be replaced. highly unlikely youll get the clean enough to not happen again.