BAWC Forums

If you are talking about the little 180 degree pipe that goes from the pipe to the fuel tank and the other end is the banjo at the bottom of the fuel filter, I haven't seen anything that replicates that piece. If you want to convert the stock hard line from the tank to AN6 there, you can use a part from 3SX which is the correct fitting:

https://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItemBundle.asp?idProduct=30271

Then use whatever AN6 fuel filter and associated hoses/ends and such to finish that. Nothing wrong with the stock fuel filter though for most people.

Correct crush washer fixed it! Too bad it's gonna be raining for the next couple of days.


Coop

Well, I didn't think a fuel filter would fix it but I'm out driving in town and so far I don't have any studdering. Now I've only gone to about 8psi as if a pipe is gonna come off or an issue is gonna happen then I want it to happen on the way home. Not on my errands.

Btw, what are you all using for coupling clamps? I have one that the worm clamp isn't cutting it and it's in the wheel well so I don't wanna have to worry about it.


Coop

So I did a lot of work to make sure I didn't have exhaust leak, as when it had open dumps it was horrible. There is deff an exhaust leak and its nothing like it was but its bad enough that you still smell like exhaust when you get out.

Back when I first bought the vehicle, when I really didn't know a whole lot a friend of mine and I sea foamed it. We put a vac line to go in the intake and it smoked like a MOTHER FUCKER. Which line would be best to use to do this again? I would be easily to find the leak.


Coop

The booster line over the timing belt

Hmmmm. Mine isn't factory and has a check valve and spliter. Might not be the best.


Coop

I've used the FPR vac line before. It sucks it up slower so I believe that should distribute it more evenly.

Fender guards. Mainly the ones that are attached to the bumper. What actually attached those and where can get new ones?


Coop

They are attached with clips that have a nut on them, with 10mm bolts. Can probably still order them from Mitsubishi as pretty much all their cars from the 90s and even later used them.

Any idea what they are called? I wonder if they make them in stainless so that they don't break. All of mine but one is missing. Thing is just flopping around.


Coop

Errr, like these things:

https://www.amazon.com/20pcs-10-5mm-Spr ... B00HR58UNK

Wow...,I never would have found those as looking at them I don't know if I know how they work from those pictures. Thanks again Matt.


Coop

They just slide over the tabs on the bumper cover to provide a captive nut for the bolt to screw into. If for some reason your bumper cover doesn't have the tabs on it, then you'd have to get creative.

On some of the spots you can use expanding clips too, but I don't know what the proper size would be.

https://www.amazon.com/GOOACC-Clips-Aut ... 008427D88/

Those type would work for attaching the upper piece to the lower piece that goes under the bumper cover (horizontal to the ground). Now that I think about it, there's probably more of those plastic pieces in there than the bolt/nut solution. Been a while since I've looked specifically at that area...

I think I need a list of stuff I want to fix/change/do to the car. No perticukar order.

1. Windshield wipers. Still don't work and this stops me from driving it SOOO much. Not that I want to in the rain but the dew or light sprinkle

2. Timing covers. Chances of rocks bouncing up pretty slim but I want the covers back.

3. Tint. My tint is old, and purple.

4. Stereo. I know what's wrong but need to fix it.

5. Headlights. Mine suck, just the amount of light they put out and they need to be adjusted.

6. Bumper. My fitment sucks. From intercooler pipes and me not caring but if the car ran it needs to be fixed.

7. I want aeromotive hood latches and not the ricer ones I have.

8. Exhaust leaks. Tired of them in the cabin.

9. Rear subframe. Needs the same treatment as the front.

10. Suspension. Still stock suspension and it needs fixed.

11. Paint. It deserves it.

12. A professional tune.

Any suggestions or advice about the above I would love to hear.


Coop

6. Bumper.

Wasn't what I planned to work on but put the car in the garage and saw one of the brackets and thought....let's do it. Well....first I couldn't find the other bracket. So I had to go through like 3 tubs to find it. Found other stuff I needed and had ordered. But then once I found it I went to go put them on....and remembered why I hated them. I really think I may just do some studs and locking nuts. WHAT a royal pain! I only got two bolts in the upper sides above the turn signals but seeing as how it use to be nothing this at least makes it look correct! Took me 2 hours....too do....2 bolts. What a bloody mess. I'm telling you, stud it, and some nuts...would make that so much easier. But for now, I'm very happy with fitment. Been YEARS since I could look down at the bumper and think that it looks correct.


Coop

Need to decide which spark plugs I need. What's the general rule for colder plugs? Every 10psi? Can someone school me? I think that's why I am breaking up around 10psi right now.



Coop

If you are only at 10 psi, then stock heat range plugs. Only go colder if you need to. What's the power target for the car?

Seems 16g's run 17-18psi on pump and that seems to be high 400 low 500's. That's where I want. It's breaking up at 10. It has cheap knock off spark plugs because I just ruled that out and auto zone didn't have the ngk's I took out.


Coop

Run an NGK plug in the 7 range to start and during your initial tuning - BCR7ES. If you want to crank it up beyond 17 psi or so, consider the BCR8ES to resist preignition - but you may get some fouling on the 8 in cold weather and if your tune runs rich during regular driving.