BAWC Forums

This is the intake gasket I bought.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-ms98016t

These are the exhaust clamps and how to install them.





Should be able to install all of these sometime next week, probably Friday.

Interesting brackets. I think I may check mine now.


Coop

VW / Audi exhaust studs are the right diameter and thread pitch. Looks like they might be the right length too. They're only $2 each, and then you'd need the copper plated nuts. So more than the GM bolts, but still really reasonable. I'm going to have to remember this.

[quote=""Jeff V.""]VW / Audi exhaust studs are the right diameter and thread pitch. Looks like they might be the right length too. They're only $2 each, and then you'd need the copper plated nuts. So more than the GM bolts, but still really reasonable. I'm going to have to remember this.[/quote]

Why would you want them over gm?


Coop

We've spent the last few pages talking about how the GM bolts break off after they go through enough heat cycles...

[quote=""DCIV""]Why would you want them over gm?


Coop[/quote]

Nobody goes...full GM.

I just figured it would be a problem with the bolts being too small for the job it’s assigned, so switching wouldn’t help. If it’s just a nicer bolt then I would prob just buy a better brand than another company.


Coop

5564. That's how many hours is on the truck. 156887 miles

Any tips/tricks for removing the intake manifold? YouTube has a few videos and it looks fairly easy, just time consuming.

Will probably leave the throttle body attached to the manifold and remove the coolant lines then remove it from the manifold so I can get a really good clean on it.

Thinking I might try and tackle it Friday evening depending on weather.

Exhaust manifold clamps will be here tomorrow.

Will probably do it all on Friday since I will have to unplug the spark plug wires anyway.

I do have fuel line disconnect tools so that helps.

Might see if I can pick up a pair of 90* needle nose pliers to help reach some of the harder places to get to.

Well, I have all exhaust bolts on drivers side. Need to look at the other side.


Coop

Anyone try this stuff?

https://www.acdelco.com/parts/oils-flui ... -motor-oil

Working for a company that makes parts for AC Delco, I would say it’s not worth it, since it’s probably identical or very close to the actual company that makes it for them.

[quote=""Duck Vader""]Anyone try this stuff?

https://www.acdelco.com/parts/oils-flui ... -motor-oil[/quote]

Dexos is just a spec. Many full synthetic oils meet it.

Just wondering because I got a coupon in the mail for an oil change at the local dealer for not much above cost of the oil.

It looks like it's the same as Mobil Synthetic from what I can find. Even the bottle shape is the same. Like Steve said Dexos is a spec, and you can get a cheap oil change using it, go for it.

Really you can pretty much use any of the full synthetic oils like Mobil, Valvoline, or Castrol (I still don't like Pennzoil), and as long as you change your oil every 5,000 miles you'll be fine. All of the mainstream full synthetic oils aren't really full synthetic anyway, as they come from Group III basestocks, which are still crude oil based. The only true full synthetics come from the Group IV or V basestocks, which are oils like Redline, Royal Purple, and Lucas oil.

In my RS I use the Motorcraft full synthetic 5w50, because it is Ford's recommended oil, and ~$8/qt. In my Stealth, I'll use Lucas 5w50 at the next change because it is a true full synthetic and cheaper than Redline.

The wife's Explorer gets Motorcraft 5w30 every 5,000 miles.

Huh. Learned something about oils. Thank you Aaron!

Motorcraft makes good stuff. I’ve always wondered why they wanted 5w50 in the RS but only 5w30 in most their other stuff.


Coop

[quote=""DCIV""]Huh. Learned something about oils. Thank you Aaron!

Motorcraft makes good stuff. I’ve always wondered why they wanted 5w50 in the RS but only 5w30 in most their other stuff.


Coop[/quote]

Ford calls for 5w50 for the RS, GT350, GT500, and GT. The RS doesn't have an oil cooler so that's why it's called for in the RS. I think it's to help reduce blowby etc. because it's a fairly heavy weight oil, but then it behaves like a 5 weight oil at cold temps.

FYI royal purple hasn't been a true group IV oil in several years now.

I am not due for an oil change yet, but thinking about doing it. Dealer I bought it from changed the oil, but that was about 3500 miles ago. Apparently my truck has an oil life monitor and the 5.3 with synthetic is designed to go about 7500 miles.

Debating on changing it anyway so I know for sure what is in there.

The manual says to use 5w-30. I have a case of mobil 1 high mileage full synthetic here in the garage but it is 10w-30. I can use it, but not recommended. For the cost of buying 6 more quarts I can just have the local dealer do it.

[quote=""Duck Vader""]I am not due for an oil change yet, but thinking about doing it. Dealer I bought it from changed the oil, but that was about 3500 miles ago. Apparently my truck has an oil life monitor and the 5.3 with synthetic is designed to go about 7500 miles.

Debating on changing it anyway so I know for sure what is in there.

The manual says to use 5w-30. I have a case of mobil 1 high mileage full synthetic here in the garage but it is 10w-30. I can use it, but not recommended. For the cost of buying 6 more quarts I can just have the local dealer do it.[/quote]

I would go no more than 5,000 mile oil changes personally, regardless if your car has an oil life monitor.

[quote=""Chris GTO TT""]FYI royal purple hasn't been a true group IV oil in several years now.[/quote]

You are right. It also appears that there really aren't any true Group IV synthetics, and they all use additives that are from Group III. Only the Group V oils seem to not have any crude based things in them.