BAWC Forums

Shit. Didn’t fix it. Still code p0134.

Why else would I get that code?


Coop

Common Problems That Trigger the P0134 Code

Defective oxygen sensor/air fuel ratio sensor
Defective oxygen sensor/air fuel ratio sensor heater circuit
Exhaust System Leak
Intake air system leak
Low fuel pressure
Defective engine coolant temperature sensor
Defective sensor wiring and/or circuit problem
PCM software needs to be updated
Defective PCM

I kind of want to take make my avy digital camo because of the brown and the plastic it seems like it would be fairly easy to just add squares everywhere!

Just a thought after seeing someone take a green one and add some vinyl and make it the regular camo really easy.


Coop

Got a hair of brake squeal on the front right when I just touch the peddle, goes away once I apply pressure.

Was thinking of a full ebc rotors and pads, that’s about 400 bucks but would stop that heavy bitch a lot better.

But what are some alternatives that will still stop that thing better than stock? I think I can just put newer calipers on as they are bigger, and what pads do I want? I can prob get the rotors turned and save some money.

Anyone have any good info on brake pads?


Coop

Is yours a Z71? I think they had bigger brakes - or at least mine had different rotors than the base.

Brakes in general on the Avalanche aren't great though - lots of rear brake bias.

Yeah I’m z71. You really have to stand on it to brake fast. That’s why I’m tempted to go with ebc. But I think just a good of and turned rotors would work. But I don’t know what I’m looking for in pads as everyone is “ceramic” bs.


Coop

Rotors don't make you stop faster. Its pads and pad materials.

[quote=""stealthee""]Rotors don't make you stop faster. Its pads and pad materials.[/quote]

I had some questions about this as well. But cheaper rotors could warp and this hurt stopping/require maintenance sooner.


Coop

Warped rotors are a myth.

[quote=""stealthee""]Warped rotors are a myth.[/quote]

^ this

[quote=""stealthee""]Warped rotors are a myth.[/quote]

[quote=""tabasco122""]^ this[/quote]

Lol ok.

[quote=""vr4""]Lol ok.[/quote]

Yeah I agree, I had warped rotors on my Saturn and my steering wheel shook like mad when I applied the brakes. New pads and rotors, gone.

Also cheap rotors won’t necessarily warp any faster or more than expensive ones. Dan Dillon used to run NAPA special blank rotors on his Banzai race car. He’d replace them every couple track days, but at $45 a piece, it was cheaper than drilled/slotted that would last roughly the same time.

Shaky steering doesn't mean warped rotors. The shaking is caused by pad deposit build up. The rotor itself is still true.

There used to be an article (that I can't seem to find now of course) on stoptech's site talking about how its damn near impossible to warp a rotor. This is from a company that is there to sell you rotors. If you just google warped rotor myth you can find literally hundreds of other articles that back up my statement.

I could see how it would be problematic to drive with a warped rotor. The area a pad is off the brake is very small. I do see hot spots causing uneven areas HIGHLY possible. I have also see rotors turned and seen high low spots that arnt due to pad wearing.


Coop

[quote=""stealthee""]Shaky steering doesn't mean warped rotors. The shaking is caused by pad deposit build up. The rotor itself is still true.

There used to be an article (that I can't seem to find now of course) on stoptech's site talking about how its damn near impossible to warp a rotor. This is from a company that is there to sell you rotors. If you just google warped rotor myth you can find literally hundreds of other articles that back up my statement.[/quote]

I got into an argument on a friend's Facebook post with some dealer tech monkey that linked the article. I've read it numerous times over the years. Eventually others chimed in with experience of rotor warpage.

I've seen it. I've measured it. It happens. When you can see the run-out without measuring tools... That's not pad deposit.

Battery went dead on the avalanche because it’s only putting the boat in and out and it’s not in a good place to run extension cords to trickle charge or anything like that.

Was thinking of a solar panel trickle charger. Anyone see why I shouldn’t do one that plugs into the lighter and even if it gets a couple hours a day it would be enough to keep it from being dead?


Coop

Solar one might at least extend the time before the battery is dead.

I can't remember if my old Avalanche had the lighter sockets live with the key off. If not, then it won't charge through there.

You could use a battery cutoff to disconnect the battery when not in use. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Mas ... 79&sr=8-18

But you'd also be resetting your ECU each time.

[quote=""mjannusch""]Solar one might at least extend the time before the battery is dead.

I can't remember if my old Avalanche had the lighter sockets live with the key off. If not, then it won't charge through there.

You could use a battery cutoff to disconnect the battery when not in use. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Mas ... 79&sr=8-18

But you'd also be resetting your ECU each time.[/quote]

So I just need to see if it charges my phone when everything is off to test for live sockets?

Coop

Yup.