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That’s honestly the best option. You only get like 2-4mpg difference. I’ve driven one of the 1st gens a long ways and didn’t even notice it.


Coop

I just want some of the comforts of the 2nd Gen ltz though.

Oh your preaching man. That’s my hold up on the 2500. I would love to have the heated and cooled seats. Cooled seats are so nice when it’s hot and your working or going on long trips. I wonder if a full interior swap is a thing?


Coop

Putting a GMT900 interior into a GMT800? That sounds like a whole lot of headache. Just buy the 900 to begin with.

Would it be harder to do a drivetrain swap or interior swap. Lol.


Coop

[quote=""DCIV""]Would it be harder to do a drivetrain swap or interior swap. Lol.


Coop[/quote]

Drivetrain swap would be significantly easier

Huh. Wonder if anyone has done something like that. Put a 2500 running gear with the newer stuff.


Coop

Save yourself the headache and just buy the newer truck. If you're going to do a swap, do something interesting and put a Duramax in it or something.

Haha. You know I’m not gonna do the swap. Just curious if anyone has. I did see one with Humvee parts on it. That was kind of a cool mix.

And while those options are nice, it’s not a deal breaker...just wish they had it.


Coop

If I would get an older one only thing I would do would be put a strong transmission in and add some interior comforts.

And you guys said I was difficult...

Going to keep thinking about it, but is a 2009+ LTZ really worth the $10,000 more than a gen 1. That is a lot of money.

[quote=""Chris GTO TT""]And you guys said I was difficult...[/quote]

True you were, well sort of. At least you weren't parts swapping drive trains. Ill give you that.


Ok, However id be remiss if I didn't mention Im a little afraid you might update your thread about how you've been "tempted by the fruit of another." And we start this back up again.

What's more reliable for long term ownership.

Gmt900 or f-150 if similar price, features, history, year, etc.

For instance this https://www.carmax.com/car/16451449 compared to a 09 avalanche?

5.4 Triton isn't great. Get a 2011 or newer Ford with 5.0.

Ok. I'll look and see what I can find if anything in my price range.

[quote=""ChargerX3""]5.4 Triton isn't great. Get a 2011 or newer Ford with 5.0.[/quote]

This. If you do end up with a 5.4 at least make sure it's newer than 08

[quote=""vr4""]This. Should have 3.42s if it's got the towing package[/quote]
It does, with the Heavy Duty Trailering package. And gets an engine oil cooler and heavy duty transmission oil cooler. Ours also has the integrated trailer brake controller option. The window sticker says all the 4wd versions come with a locking rear differential standard, and a single-speed transfer case (ours has 2-speed transfer case, but I think all the LTZs and Z71s may have come with that).

For reference, the K5L package is the HD towing package ID.

[quote=""DCIV""]Matt....would you tow your spyder with the avalanche? Max tow rating is something like 5k and your suppose to leave yourself 10% well hell that’s gotta be one light trailer? Am I missing something?[/quote]
Hell yeah. I tow cars with it all the time. And large camper trailers, and snowmobile trailers, boats, Seadoos, ATVs, etc. 5000 lb trailer weight? Lol... Nah, try 7800 lbs with the HD towing package. 5400 lbs without. 7700 lbs with the 6.2L V8.

[quote=""Duck Vader""]How is rust on it? My XJ came from WI with us when we moved out here and rust on it is an issue.[/quote]
Yeah, there's for sure surface rust underneath. We do drive it as our primary "snow on the roads" winter vehicle. Try to keep it clean, but when it is really cold here the carwashes close. Perfect paint and body panels. Chrome wheels and grille still look great.

One really nice thing about the Avalanche is that since it comes with the hard tonneau covers, the bed is always enclosed unless you take them off. The tailgate also locks, and is connected to the door locks - so when you unlock your doors then your tailgate unlocks, and vice-versa. It really comes in handy a lot when you want to quick throw something in the back - and then you know it is reasonably safe. Someone's really going to have to go through some trouble to get access to the box.

The midgate comes in handy if you need to pick up something long from Home Depot. Just fold the rear seats down and drop the midgate and leave the crossbar and the glass in place and you have to the height of the tonneau covers open to the cab. If you need something taller to fit, before you drop the midgate you just undo two easy clamps at the roof for the glass, and slide the glass into notches in the midgate and turn two dials to lock it in there, then drop the midgate and it also drops the bar attached to the midgate. Then you've got room up to the glass weatherstripping available. Try that with a Silverado or F150.

The only drawback with the midgate is that you lose your back row of seating with it down.

Pretty rare that I've opened it all the way up with the glass removed too, but it has come in handy a few times moving pinball machines or furniture and such. You can also store the glass on the midgate and just have the back glass portion open. Open the sunroof and you are 70% of the way to a convertible. lol.

One thing I'm kind of worried about is long term reliability. Really want to keep whatever truck I get at least 10+ years. Tired of constantly swapping. So figure I'll put on over 100k miles so truck will go over 200k. Want something that will be able to last that without a second thought.

So when looking at these things used, is there an easy way to see if they have the towing package?


Coop