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Not yet. Wanted to get a genuine motorcraft starter solenoid to replace the fried one along with new wires so ordered one off Summit. Should be here tomorrow to see if that gets it running. If it fries again, I am assuming it is something with the ignition. Both times it went out was after getting gas, so was right after start up.

I am idiot. Started truck. No shut off. WTF. Solenoid upside down. Crossed wires. Still need to wire a new water temp gauge, put new front brake pads on, and replace some blown fuses to see if they keep going. But the truck fires right up now, no issues. At least for now.

That should get it hopefully running well enough until I figure out the rest of the issues, and there are a lot of them. But I only paid $2600 after it was all said and done for the damn thing, so it is expected.

Oh i thought you paid like $500 for the rig.

It has about $4600 in new parts in the last few months. Most in the area are about $5k + in similar or worse condition.

Guess I can update this.

Was going to bleed the brakes after new pads - and sheered off bleeder. So going to try and extract it and replace. If not, new calipers will go in.

Needs a throttle return spring then tuned for better idle.

Power steering pump is making an awful noise. More than likely just going to replace it so I know it has a good unit. They are not that expensive.

Noticed radiator was low on coolant, topped it off. Went to the parts store to buy new bleeders, came home to massive puddle. Leaking from about 1/8 of the way up. Drained it today and it only drained about 2 gallons of liquid. It usually drains about 5-6 according the the webs. So there is that. Took it out and am brining it to a local repair shop that specializes in this old stuff still. Going to see if they can repair it, and if so, how much. I can get a new one from summit that matches this one for about $550.

While I wait on the local repair shop to check on the radiator (only one who does the old ones in town, so like 1-2 weeks before he can even look it he is so busy) I decided to do a couple other things. Took the carb off last night, going to install throttle return springs and an electric choke. Took a look at the rotor and distributor cap and they are decently worn, so replacing those since so cheap to do anyway. One of the plug boots was on it's last leg so getting all new wires and plugs. Also ordered a new powersteering pump while I was at it. So far I am about $1000 into parts on this including the radiator. This thing is crazy cheap to work on and insure. Through hagerty it is about $500 a year to insure both the chevelle and this truck together.

I’ve messed with the broken bleeder screw….just get new calipers. They were like 50 bucks for two on the avalanche.


Coop

DCIV wrote: ↑Wed Sep 02, 2026 5:10 pm I’ve messed with the broken bleeder screw….just get new calipers. They were like 50 bucks for two on the avalanche.


Coop

same on my explorer. ive got a ton of experience extracting broken bolts/studs. gave the bleeder screws the old college try and said F it. not worth my time

vr4 wrote: ↑Wed Sep 02, 2026 5:16 pm

DCIV wrote: ↑Wed Sep 02, 2026 5:10 pm I’ve messed with the broken bleeder screw….just get new calipers. They were like 50 bucks for two on the avalanche.


Coop

same on my explorer. ive got a ton of experience extracting broken bolts/studs. gave the bleeder screws the old college try and said F it. not worth my time

Yeah I gave it 10 mins and realized it’s not gonna be worth my time when they are that cheap. Plus, no telling how old the seals and everything are.


Coop

Yeah I wouldn't want to risk shavings in there from drilling I out

I'm not going to drill it. Just going to see if my extractor will work without drilling since it sheared low enough I might be able to get it in with drilling. If it doesn't work I'll get new ones

On lunch today I put the carb back on and wired the eletric choke - crazy easy. Adjusted the throttle. Removed the power steering pump. Now I wait. New pump, plugs, wires, etc get here Saturday suposedly. Still waiting on radiator news. Debating if I want to worry about tackling the fuel tank issue right now. Both work, but like I said, the circuit between the two randomly switches, so if one tank is empty it might die out on you and you dont know what tank it is taking it from, plus the gas gauge doesn't work. Hell half the gauges dont. Only one I really care about getting to work is the fuel one and maybe at a tach.

I recently discovered someone makes an EPAS system for my dad's 70

Ordered a handful of other things today since on sale for labor day. New sending units and wires, new interior gas tank switch, new selector valve. The valve under there right now is aftermarket and the plug going into it is corroded and broken. Figured cheap insurance to just get a new oem style one. Not one of those universal type. Same with the switch and units.

Debating on what I want to do for a radio. It doesn't have one, but has aftermarket wires and door speakers installed. So just needs a radio put in. Debating on getting a cheap $30 bluetooth one from Walmart.

Truck is running. Had a few issues here and there, but overall things are going well now. Goes in tomorrow to get the carb fine tuned.

But I got everything else done and working. Carb dropped a float valve thing and the washers were shot so leaking. FIxed that.

Other than that it now has new radio, but needs speakers. Door ones are blown.

Also did:
throttle return spring
distrib rotor, cap, plugs, wires
power steering pump
sending units
tank selector switch and valve
new fuel lines under the truck
exhaust gaskets
tach/speedo/fuel gauge/temp gauge
custom turn signal indicators in the cab
radiator fixed
battery
starter wires
wired in a 7 pin trailer harness
fixed and powered up the OG brake controller
changed oil and flushed out the old coolant
new speedo gear in the transmission

Things I found out. - Not original rear end or engine. Rear is 3.55 gears, factory was 410. Not sure why it was switched but guessing it was all they could find when something went wrong? Engine is a 460, factory was 400. But it is a 460 from a car so the oil pain drain plug is in a pain in the ass spot.

That is all I can think of off the top of my head.

I will get better pics soon.

I like this motivation. Keep it up.

The carb is shot. Needs full rebuid. So debating on rebuild or fuck it and go EFI

For that truck i would probably just get a gas sipping carb like an Edelbrock.