BAWC Forums

https://www.stelvioforum.com/threads/da ... nge.19873/

Jeff….read post number 8 and 11.


Coop

It's actually a kit from Rock Auto.

After sleeping on it, I think it's just that the ABS module sees a big difference in the amount of pedal travel relative to the amount of fluid pressure. I pushed all the pistons back in, so there was the initial squish that feels almost like a fluid loss, and now everything is out of calibration. Since the ABS module is in a fault state, everything that relies on it is also freaking out. I'm going to go out and drive it and see if it just needs to walk it off, so to speak.

Also, shout out to the Five Bananas break caliper spreader It worked great, and the name is SO much better than all the other made up garbage Amazon names.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TV71GZ1

Oh that looks nice, I don't have any cars with fixed calipers anymore so not sure how much better it'd be for me.

Did that fix it?


Coop

Chris wrote:Oh that looks nice, I don't have any cars with fixed calipers anymore so not sure how much better it'd be for me.

It worked on the floating rear calipers too. It was good I had it. I wouldn't have been able to put a c-clamp on it without putting an uncomfortable amount of pressure on the parking brake motor.

Coop wrote:Did that fix it?

No.

Learning Italian.



Need to wait for a gateway bypass module to show up in order to clear the damn codes. Thank goodness for Amazon overnight delivery.

That's gonna suck too. Go down to the bottom of this page to see how much of a hassle it'll be.

https://squadra-tuning.com/obd-tools/sgw-bridge/

This car definitely hates me. Having it in the ignition on, engine off mode results in a constant high pitched electronic squeal.

That looks like not fun

No, it does not. It looks like it's a little easier if you go in through the top by pulling the instrument cluster, but even that sounds risky. I don't want to risk breaking something. I'm used to reaching around in blind spaces to remove electrical connectors, so hopefully this won't be too bad for me.

I might look into installing a permanent SGW bypass in the future.

Here we go.

This is even worse than the internet made it out to be. There was NO WAY I was going to be able to reach up there to get the connectors.



Some people suggested taking the bottom panel off so you can drop the infotainment unit (the silver box) down, but that involves removing the knee airbag. No fucking way I'm messing with airbags after the chaos a simple brake service caused.

Looks like we're going in through the cluster. It really wasn't that bad except for the huge metal spring clips that hold the top of the cluster in. I was able to snake a pry bar up from the sides of the steering column and pop them out from behind.



Now we see the top of the little beastie. It's the black box in the middle. There's 3 nylock nuts and 2 connectors to undo. I was literally elbows deep in the dash where the two gauge humps were.



Gotcha, you loathsome little shit.



Now we need to put this rube goldberg crap together. The orange cable bypasses the gateway, It's got two sockets for the gateway cables on one end, and a sixteen pin OBD connector on the other. The gray cable reroutes the CANBus pins 6 and 14 to pins 12 and 13. The black cube on the end is the bluetooth OBDLink MX I've had for a few years. It's honestly one of the most versatile tools I own. I can use it for hacking or actual work.

I built a really janky DIY version of the gray cable to do the initial read-only scan of the codes yesterday. The Stellantis specific cable packages came from Amazon tonight.



Temporarily hooked up the cluster just in case it needed to see it on the bus while I did the code reset. The program crashed on the first try, and I thought I was screwed.



But by the Power of the Five Bananas, I have mended it!



I threw it back together just enough for a test drive. This is a crazy fun little SUV when it's working right. I hadn't really driven it since she bought it back in late '23, and definitely not this hard. It feels more nimble and playful than the Audi does.

The Rock Auto brakes are pretty damn good for the price. I feel pretty good about buying a set for the Audi next.

This was definitely annoying, and I really don't want to do it again. But at least I have the tools, and I know what's involved now. I may see if someone makes a gateway relocation kit so I can move it down behind the storage bin to the left of the steering wheel. That comes out with one torx screw and a plastic trim tool, and there's a ton of room to work in there.

I'm glad you got it resolved. Was thinking about you working on this earlier.

what brakes? ive had powerstops on the lexus for a couple years now and theyve been pretty decent

I have Powerstop pads on both my RS (all 4 corners) and my Stealth (front only cause no powerstops for EvoX rear calipers), and I like them a lot for a street pad.

Rock Auto Dynamic Friction.

Glad you got it fixed.


Coop

It's crazy that all that needed to be done to clear codes...

aaronatstate wrote: ↑Tue Mar 18, 2025 5:15 pm It's crazy that all that needed to be done to clear codes...

its been an FCA thing since about 2016. started on a couple models of ram and slowly rolled out to the entire lineup. need to have a subscription or install that bypass module

Sorry to hear bud. That is a lot of codes. Clear codes, pull power and let it reset?

Couple Moscow Mules work good for a bad back.