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A far more simple test would be to just unplug the damn sensors and see if it behaves better.

Lol got jeff cussing.

Trust me Jeff I’m at the end of my rope over here. I am grasping at straws, it’s something with the tune. Something I did in the harness made everything worse. I’ve heard things from it’s switched in chrome, to closed loop will just use a fuel table, to evo 560 injectors don’t like to be tuned. Like seriously. I’ve read and heard so much that I just need serious help.


Coop

Randomly changing things and reflashing it isn't going to help. It'll just make things worse and possibly brick your ECU in the process.

Check your wiring until you're sure it's right.
Take the translator out and put a stock MAF on it for testing.
Download your current ECU file and send it to me.
Don't flash anything.

I can’t put in a stock maf...wish I could, I would have de modded that a long time ago. The way my intercooler piping is there is no way.

I will download my current and send it to you while I check the wiring.

I know this isn’t best case but if it does brick I do have two spares.


Coop

Put an NA intake tube on it if you have to. It's just for testing.

I have Chrome, Evo560 injectors, and stock narrowbands (have a wideband further downstream) and I have had no issues tuning. I also have an Evo MAF.

On top of it, I am also running E85 with my base fuel pressure set to make my 560cc injectors behave like 640cc injectors, so my ECU is flashed to say the injectors are 492cc injectors because of the E85 (since you need 30% more fuel 492*1.3=640). Guess what it goes into closed loop and doesn't run pig rich. So it has to be something with your adapter harness, bad 02 sensors, or the MAF-T.

[quote=""Jeff V.""]Put an NA intake tube on it if you have to. It's just for testing.[/quote]

I don’t have an NA intake tube?

I see what your saying though. I will see if I can rig something up.


Coop

Someone please answer me this, there was or was not a switch in chrome because the narrow bands were backwards? Because if so I put my narrow bands in correctly and now they are backwards.


Coop

There's no software switch in Chrome to invert the O2 sensor banks. Depending on what Chrome ECU you have though, I think the plug and play version might have a jumper to switch them around. If you have to use an adapter harness, then the wiring changes for the different years of Fed/California/"other" should happen in the adapter harness.

Greg, wasn't there also older versions of Evoscan that had the display of the sensors inverted, or the labeling of them incorrect or some bug like that?

As far as the sensor swapping, you should also be able to just set the periphery bits to ignore the second O2 sensor and run like a JDM car with just a single O2 sensor.

Look, the O2 sensors are for fuel trims only. They're for fine adjustments. Not big drastic swings. The ECU ignores them until the car is warm anyway. Also, each bank of cylinders should not be that drastically different from each other. So even if the O2 sensors were backward, it shouldn't cause it to be running terrible. A little rich or lean, sure. But if your banks are so mismatched that it's running like garbage, then you've got something else wrong. Stuck injectors, or some other wiring problem. My money is on the MAF and/or translator settings.

Check the wiring to make sure it's right, but stop getting so hung up on the O2s. Just unplug them for testing. It'll force the car to stay in open loop and run off the maps. That'll make it easier to troubleshoot. Worry about the O2s after you get the car running right.

K. I’m just hung up because that’s all I really changed.

Jeff I sent you a video but I was focused on the o2’s lol.

I know the maft settings are right and confirmed with forest gump on 3si, they are correct.

Just give me some ideas guys as I’m at a loss.


Coop

I unplugged the o2’s I let it warm up. No more lugging, no more stupid rich (wife says I still smell like exhaust), like that was driveable and the Wideband looks good the entire time.

Coop

So something is wrong with the O2s...

Check the wiring. If they're connected to pins they shouldn't be, it's possible they're causing the ECU to freak out.

I will pull the harness again tomorrow.


Coop

Baby woke me up early so I pulled the harness. The o2 sensors are right. I stared and 8 times checked. I put the o2 sensors in the correct slots according to the stealth316 page for pin outs.

Now if that’s not correct then I’m happy to change them.

My blackstealth logger reads both o2’s, I need to unplug one and see if it’s corresponding o2 shuts off.

My evo scan only logs one o2.

Like seriously think I’m crazy over here.


Coop

Also while I’m here fucking up wiring. Anyone wire their aem Wideband into blackstealth logger? Happen to remember which wire to tap?


Coop

3s electronic troubleshooting threads give me cold chills. Ugh!

Especially with someone that doesn't know what the freak they are doing.

Usually there is a local that can help me but they have all moved away.

It's the o2's. Whatever it is...it's the o2's.


Coop

If you get a dead O2 sensor (not cycling) the computer will continue to richen the fuel mixture to try to get it to cycle. I had the exact problem with my green stealth. I replaced my whole engine harness thinking it was the issue (because it had been hacked up) and all I had to do was replace my rear O2 sensor . But, with the Chrome ecu, you can easily tell if a sensor isn't cycling and what the fuel trims are doing to compensate.