BAWC Forums

DCIV wrote: ↑Sun Jan 04, 2026 11:41 am Can you try on a panel from the junk yard or something?


Coop

I have 2 spare front fenders, valences, and trunk lid to practice on first.

I painted my cars hood years ago. Man did it turn out bad. So much to do with humidity, air pressure, spray gun, prep…..I had orange peal all over the hood and it would oxidize really quick.

By all means, do it. Just practice on something else first.


Coop

It can't be any worse looking than what is on there right now. Horrible. Like a white lacquer primer or something with no clear on it or anything. You can literally flake it off in some places and see the original color under it. I'm sanding to metal. Doing body work. Primer. Basecoat. Clear. With proper steps in between. Between primer, paint, and clear I'm at about $2400 so not buying the cheap stuff. Middle of the range quality. Not looking for a show car, but just something that looks good from 15 ft or so away.

I also have all the tools and know-how on how to fix orange peel.

That's a lot of surface rust already? You leave it out in the rain?

Those are not the fenders from when I bought it. Those are used original 68 ones I picked up. Haven't had a chance to clean them up yet. The car came with 67 front end on a 68 body. So we bought some used 68 front pieces. That is how they looked when I got them. I cleaned up the inside and coated with underbody rust preventive. Once I finish more of the interior Danielle wants to go get the exhaust done. Then I will start the sanding and body work process.

If you plan to use those fenders just know that bondo like to absorb water, so the metal underneath is likely more rusted than your exposed metal. You might need to remove all that bondo and start from scratch.

That is the plan.

I should take some up close pictures to show how bad the current paint is. Thick in some areas, thin in others. Rough to the touch and you can see where it ran down the side. Going to sand down to the metal on all of it soon.

I'll get pictures tomorrow but most of the interior is back together. Just have to install drivers seat and steering wheel. Then done.

However, I have to order 68 park lamp housings. Because they put a 67 front on, it has 67 lamp housings that do not fit a 68 lower valence. Ugh. Lol

Everything but the door panels and dash vents are back in on the inside. Did find a piece of paper on the gas tank, was excited, then got sad.

After I fix the rear seal on the transmission, the new park lamps arrive, and I install the headlights, it should be good to take for a test run and go get new exhaust.

Then it will be time to sand everything down and start the body work and paint process.

Paper I found:



Interior as it sits today:







Not sure if I posted this pic, but here is the rear diff all opened up and cleaned:



And here is the new multileaf suspension and shocks in the rear:



As you can see, the shackles are now regular and don't stick out of the bottom of the rear:



Here is a shot of the rear axle/diff and gas tank. I will be cleaning them up and painting with rust converter stuff when I am doing the rest of the work on it for the body work.

If youre hanging out down there, might take a wire wheel to the axle and then paint her up. You consider an aftermarket diff cover...in chrome or aluminum?

I did look into them. But I'm just going to paint it black along with the axle

Few issues.

Passenger speaker causing short in the radio. Temp and volt gauge not working. Center console lights not working. Gen light is on. Power steering loud squelch at full lock and squeal from engine at hard throttle.

Also engine has a burning smell. Hard to place what or where.

Burning smell and electrical stuff don’t mix well.


Coop

Coming from under the hood near the engine. So at least it's a limited area it might be

I thought that's what GM's smelled like


More seriously could it just be residual burning off from the work you are doing?

Not sure, but guessing no? Not sure temp it was running either since that gauge wasn't working. Ran it around the neighborhood. Got gas. Still had the smell when we got home.

All old classics have a "smell", so you might have to be more specific. Oil, plastics, rubber, Old spice?

Couple of things to note.

Has an old autolite alternator that needs an external regulator. The external regulator is missing one of the tabs. I had it running and it was at over 16 volts at the battery. Might be why I was smelling some burning. Also, the power steering pump and pulley are at an angle, it sounds like that is where the noise is coming from. So ordered an internal regulated alternator from Jegs - a powermaster with 150 amp, a new Borgeson power steering pump and pulley, new engine belts, all new weatherstripping, and a new drivers door shell. It is rough and more than just rust. Dented to shit on the inside and everything. The wiring I have now for the car can be set to use the internal regulator.