Jeff tries to make a hot rod out of a farm truck. '92 Mighty Max

[Jeff V.]

I do know a bit more about it, but I didn't actually fix it. Tactrix ignored the information I sent them. The Russian guys who wrote MMCFlash fixed it. I was going to try writing my own programming utility, but I finally admitted to myself it's way over my head. It was money I didn't want to spend, but there's no way I could get it working on my own any time soon.

[Jeff V.]

I'm running into an interesting problem with this ECU.

I can't get it to set codes for the immobilizer or ETACS communication. I need it to set those codes so I can figure out how to bypass them. The ETACS is part of the immobilizer so it should realistically set both codes. But it should at least set the no communication code. It set a code for no communication with the gauge cluster, so it's at least got the CANbus diagnostics enabled at some level. :d ontknow:

According to the service manual, it checks comm with the ETACS and immo when you turn the key to the engine start position. I've got everything wired up on my bench ECU, and it just won't trigger those DTCs. It's so weird.

One of the junkyards here had a 2006 Eclipse, so I went and grabbed the ETACS out of that. I'll get it wired up and see what changes.

[ChargerX3]

Odd to say the least. I would think it would trip some sort of code either way.

[DCIV]

Yeah I thought the etacs was involved in all of that.


Coop

[Jeff V.]

Yeah I thought the etacs was involved in all of that.

That's my whole point. It's critical to this. Key on, run an immo check, refuse to start the engine unless everything matches. That's why I'm not chasing down fuel and timing and MIVEC tables right now. None of that matters if I can't get the engine to run.

I'm almost wondering if it's less work to just stuff the immobilizer hardware under the dash right now. I've got the ECU, ETACS, key antenna, and a busted key head. I should be able to reprogram it with the Mitsubishi J2534 software.

I'd actually like to run a coded key for anti theft purposes. I was thinking it'd be too much work to wire up the ETACS and Eclipse fuse box into the truck, but I really don't have to fully install it. I only have to give it just enough wiring to power up and talk to the ECU....

[Jeff V.]

Believe it or not, things are actually happening with this.

The second Eclipse ECU is here. So I've got one to run in the truck, and an identical one to have on my desk for research.
I rebuilt my bench test harness to include the ETACS module and an ignition switch / key reader assembly from an Endeavor.
The Mitsu factory software claims it successfully matched up the Eclipse ECU, ETACS, and Endeavor ignition key. I won't know for sure if it worked until I try to start the engine.
I took off the Montero cam sensor and reinstalled the Eclipse cam sensor. I'm going to get the timing belt on it in the next couple days.
The 3.8L intake has been modified to work with my engine. I also built a support bracket for it.
I've also got some big spacers on order to relocate my AC bracket. Had to order those from England.
If it's not back in the truck this weekend, it should be very close.

After that, I need to build fuel lines, coolant lines, and an exhaust, along with a whole hell of a lot of wiring. Fuel and coolant should be easy. Wiring will be time consuming, but shouldn't be difficult. Going to try to use as much Endeavor stuff as I can. Exhaust could go either way.

[ChargerX3]

Relocate ac? What’s wrong with your fuel lines? I reused mine. You can use the SR exhaust like I did. It’s almost a perfect fit. I have a sneaky suspicion the Montero sport downpipe will be a perfect fit to your existing cat back. Look into that one.

[Jeff V.]

AC bracket needs to be pushed out from the side of the block to fit where I want it to go. I'd have to be able to find an SR downpipe before I could use one. I'm using the 3.8L truck fuel rails, so I need to re-route the feed and return lines.

Part of the problem is I've been through 2 or 3 different iterations of this build and shit's so mixed and matched now.

[ChargerX3]

You’re just choosing to be like a high school girl... complicated.

[Jeff V.]

I'm challenging myself.

[ChargerX3]

That you are.

[Jeff V.]

Things have gone quite wrong. Fortunately it's not as bad as I initially feared, but it still sucks.

Last weekend I was installing the timing belt. After I had the belt on and more or less in place, I went to rotate the crank. It stopped abruptly part way through the cycle. I backed it off, then went back in the original direction. It got a little further, but eventually hit a hard stop. WTF?

This is very strange to me, because that's the first thing I checked before I spent a very hot day doing a very difficult engine pull. It rotated smoothly through a half dozen rotations.

I pulled the pan off, and couldn't see anything odd. So I let it sit for a few days because I was pretty pissed.

Today I pulled the heads off. The bores are full of carbon crud. One of them had a little compressed wall of the stuff built up right at the edge of the bore. I think that's what was stopping me from getting a full rotation. It was locking against the bottom of the cylinder head.







I cleaned it out as best I could and then added a little oil to the cylinders. It rotates nice and smooth now.

I'm still weighing my options. But I think for right now I'm just going to throw some head gaskets on it. Just enough to get it running. I will absolutely do a proper engine rebuild, but I'm not ready to make that commitment until I'm sure I can get all the other crap working and turn this back into a functioning truck.

I didn't have very high expectations for a $150 engine, but damn, was it too much to ask for it to at least give me a brief test run?

The next thing I'll probably find out is the crank got bent when the donor car rolled over. I had that problem back when I did my turbo conversion on my blue Stealth. It'd be karmic for me to go through that again.

I should have just bought a damn S10 like I originally said I was going to do.

[DCIV]

For what it’s worth, I can’t find that engine for even 4x’s as much as you paid. So if you ever wanna double or tripple your money in it, just say so.


Coop

[Jeff V.]

There's a salvage yard here in town that has two. $500 and $600. I briefly considered buying one.

[vr4]

[quote=""Jeff V.""]

I should have just bought a damn S10 like I originally said I was going to do.[/quote]


I love my damn S10

[DCIV]

[quote=""Jeff V.""]There's a salvage yard here in town that has two. $500 and $600. I briefly considered buying one.[/quote]

I wish it wasn’t so much to ship one. I would pay 500 for one. Slowly build it to put in my vr4.


Coop

[ChargerX3]

That sucks. At least the motor isn’t toast. Should be good to go now. Definitely not hurt for $150. I had to drop $800 for mine.

At least it’s not an s10.

[Jeff V.]

Missubishi Mahtee Macs

"This thing slams down harder than Monica Lewinski in the Oval Office"

"I didn't know at the time, but I bought Walter White's mini truck"

[ChargerX3]

Lol, that guy tries too hard to be interesting.

[DCIV]

I liked the story! lol


Coop