Yea this is was just a first start up. I only have half the sensors I need hooked up. This proves that I have all my wiring correct and that the later gen cam trigger wheel will work with our ecu.
I now get to go through and clean up my wiring and start tying things together. Just idling this motor is already rocking the truck. Lol. This should be fun!
Mitsubishi Mighty Max
Moderator: Monochrome
Re: Mitsubishi Mighty Max
How much more hp do you think you are picking up from stock?
Coop
Coop
[quote=""Melis""]The cop asked Coop "Are you really a firefighter?" Coop was like "yeah" then the cop said "ok your in charge" then the cop left 
[/quote]
DCIV: first to 2,000,000 rep points
[/quote]
DCIV: first to 2,000,000 rep points
Re: Mitsubishi Mighty Max
I'm hoping to get just above 300hp. I've seen a couple other similar builds get in that range.
Re: Mitsubishi Mighty Max
That's awesome! All of these Mivec swaps have me wanting to do one. But I'd rather just bolt shit on and go 
First to 184 million
Re: Mitsubishi Mighty Max
Thanks Hans. It's pretty exciting to build. The fact that Mitsubishi made things cross compatible makes this build that much easier. I've only had to pull out a welder for the motor mounts thus far. Other than that it's just mix matching parts and then some electrical.
Re: Mitsubishi Mighty Max
Ok, so Ive got some updates to share, but I have to clear up a few crucial items first. My two big items right now are my 360cc Turbo Injectors (Low Impedance) and wiring in the knock sensor.
First and most important are the injectors, as this has to potential to burn up injectors and overload the ECU. Thanks to Jeff catching this as I had completely forgot about them being low impedance vs high impedance that came in the truck. Little background- the stock injectors for the mivec are 305cc and are a different profile (shorter by about 1/2") and have different connectors for the harness. Realizing that I wanted to maximize the potential of the motor I figured a simple swap in of the stock TT 360cc injectors would be a perfect match. They are, except it appears they require resistor/s to work properly with a 98 ecu. Ive bounced around a couple threads over a couple platforms and Im still a little stumped.
1st method is running the stock resistor and wiring harness out of a TT stealth. I have the resistor pack, but not the rest of the harness. I must admit that how they wire this thing in confuses me, so I have looked elsewhere. If someone who knows this well would explain, then I would be eager to listen.
This lead me to some honda forums (450cc eclipse wire ins) and BobtheGreat has a thread here where he wires in resistors for 360cc. http://bobthegreat.com/pages/mycar/mods ... index.html
On these forums they show wiring in either a resistor pack, or in bobs case, wiring in resistors to each individual line which looks like hell. I, with my limited knowledge decided to try and hook up my 3s resistor pack, to one of the leads to run all them through. It worked as it slowed down the idle and make the motor run smoother. I decided to follow some of the guys on the other forum and try out what might be a simpler resistor method.
Max injector wiring
1) 12v power (this is where I put the resistor).
2) Injector signal #1
3) Injector signal #2
4) Injector signal #3
5) Injector signal #4
6) Injector signal #5
7) Injector signal #6
I decided to simplify all the resistors into 1 10 ohm/10 watt resistor shown here. Wired this way it runs much like the hack i did above. My question though is did I do this correctly, or have i managed to mess things up. If so what do i need to do? If I need to run various resistors to make this work then I might look back into the 3s resistor pack, but if that is the case I will need insight as to how to make that thing work.
Lastly, I need to wire in the knock sensor. I know that wire is shielded, so im going to try and find a donor 3s one, or maybe use an o2 one? Thoughts? Also will it be ok to run the 5v power wire off of a shared, cam sensor, crank sensor feed wire?
Thanks,
Steve
First and most important are the injectors, as this has to potential to burn up injectors and overload the ECU. Thanks to Jeff catching this as I had completely forgot about them being low impedance vs high impedance that came in the truck. Little background- the stock injectors for the mivec are 305cc and are a different profile (shorter by about 1/2") and have different connectors for the harness. Realizing that I wanted to maximize the potential of the motor I figured a simple swap in of the stock TT 360cc injectors would be a perfect match. They are, except it appears they require resistor/s to work properly with a 98 ecu. Ive bounced around a couple threads over a couple platforms and Im still a little stumped.
1st method is running the stock resistor and wiring harness out of a TT stealth. I have the resistor pack, but not the rest of the harness. I must admit that how they wire this thing in confuses me, so I have looked elsewhere. If someone who knows this well would explain, then I would be eager to listen.
This lead me to some honda forums (450cc eclipse wire ins) and BobtheGreat has a thread here where he wires in resistors for 360cc. http://bobthegreat.com/pages/mycar/mods ... index.html
On these forums they show wiring in either a resistor pack, or in bobs case, wiring in resistors to each individual line which looks like hell. I, with my limited knowledge decided to try and hook up my 3s resistor pack, to one of the leads to run all them through. It worked as it slowed down the idle and make the motor run smoother. I decided to follow some of the guys on the other forum and try out what might be a simpler resistor method.
Max injector wiring
1) 12v power (this is where I put the resistor).
2) Injector signal #1
3) Injector signal #2
4) Injector signal #3
5) Injector signal #4
6) Injector signal #5
7) Injector signal #6
I decided to simplify all the resistors into 1 10 ohm/10 watt resistor shown here. Wired this way it runs much like the hack i did above. My question though is did I do this correctly, or have i managed to mess things up. If so what do i need to do? If I need to run various resistors to make this work then I might look back into the 3s resistor pack, but if that is the case I will need insight as to how to make that thing work.
Lastly, I need to wire in the knock sensor. I know that wire is shielded, so im going to try and find a donor 3s one, or maybe use an o2 one? Thoughts? Also will it be ok to run the 5v power wire off of a shared, cam sensor, crank sensor feed wire?
Thanks,
Steve
Re: Mitsubishi Mighty Max
What's the wattage rating on the stock 3S resistors? If going down to a single one, I'd use one with a watt rating at least as high as the combined total of the stock ones, if not higher. Those resistors can get pretty toasty...
-Matt
'21 Corvette Stingray HTC Z51
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4 (11.838@117.56)
'21 Corvette Stingray HTC Z51
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4 (11.838@117.56)
Re: Mitsubishi Mighty Max
Bad news. You're going to need a more complex harness.
Chris helped me work through the problem. In a nutshell, if you run everything through a single resistor, you're going to have voltage and current fluctuations as each injector fires.
With individual resistors, each injector gets a constant, stable supply of current, regardless of what the other injectors are doing.
Or you could just run it with high impedance injectors until you actually decide to turbo it.
Chris helped me work through the problem. In a nutshell, if you run everything through a single resistor, you're going to have voltage and current fluctuations as each injector fires.
With individual resistors, each injector gets a constant, stable supply of current, regardless of what the other injectors are doing.
Or you could just run it with high impedance injectors until you actually decide to turbo it.
Last edited by Jeff V. on Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I think about all the things we could have done, all the miracles we could have achieved, if we were all just a little bit better than it turns out we are.
--Naomi Nagata
--Naomi Nagata
Re: Mitsubishi Mighty Max
That would explain why the truck falls on its face at higher rpms. I'm going to wire in a proper harness with the TT resistor pack. Should take up a good chunk of my day. Appreciate the help guys.
I think I have the knock sensor figured out as well. One wire is signal and the other is chassis ground.
I think I have the knock sensor figured out as well. One wire is signal and the other is chassis ground.
Re: Mitsubishi Mighty Max
The lack of power could be the horribly hacked together map I made too.
Once you've got the wiring solid and have some O2 sensors installed, we can start logging and actually trying to tune this thing.
Once you've got the wiring solid and have some O2 sensors installed, we can start logging and actually trying to tune this thing.
I think about all the things we could have done, all the miracles we could have achieved, if we were all just a little bit better than it turns out we are.
--Naomi Nagata
--Naomi Nagata
-
aaronatstate
- Posts: 9847
- Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2007 3:52 pm
- Location: Arkansas
Re: Mitsubishi Mighty Max
You can do the resistor pack, or you can run the stock 305cc injectors at 60psi base pressure and they will act like 360cc injectors.
Chr15t0ph3r85: YES
Chr15t0ph3r85: GOOO STATE
Re: Mitsubishi Mighty Max
I don't doubt that is some of it but it should run better on a 98 3.5 montero map. Anything over 1/3 throttle wants to choke it. I'll know better once I wrap up proper injector wiring today.
Narrow band has been in. Just tied in knock, and ran my leads for mivec (12v and ground). Question is where do I want to run my leads to? Do I want my ecu to control it via grounding it or through its power source? Which circuits on the ecu would we want to test to do this? Egr? I have also picked up a power station so if we know the voltage and amps a particular circuit can generate then I can test it on one of my solenoids.
Have an wideband o2 that I will attempt to install today. Wrapped up the exhaust on Monday.
Narrow band has been in. Just tied in knock, and ran my leads for mivec (12v and ground). Question is where do I want to run my leads to? Do I want my ecu to control it via grounding it or through its power source? Which circuits on the ecu would we want to test to do this? Egr? I have also picked up a power station so if we know the voltage and amps a particular circuit can generate then I can test it on one of my solenoids.
Have an wideband o2 that I will attempt to install today. Wrapped up the exhaust on Monday.
Re: Mitsubishi Mighty Max
[quote=""aaronatstate""]You can do the resistor pack, or you can run the stock 305cc injectors at 60psi base pressure and they will act like 360cc injectors.[/quote]
Fair point. Would my fpr be able to control that much psi and volume though? I'll keep that in mind if I can't rewire the resistor.
Fair point. Would my fpr be able to control that much psi and volume though? I'll keep that in mind if I can't rewire the resistor.
Re: Mitsubishi Mighty Max
EGR and boost solenoid I guess? I dunno if we're supposed to run both solenoids separately, or tie them to a single input. I haven't really put much thought into it.
I think about all the things we could have done, all the miracles we could have achieved, if we were all just a little bit better than it turns out we are.
--Naomi Nagata
--Naomi Nagata
-
aaronatstate
- Posts: 9847
- Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2007 3:52 pm
- Location: Arkansas
Re: Mitsubishi Mighty Max
[quote=""ChargerX3""]Fair point. Would my fpr be able to control that much psi and volume though? I'll keep that in mind if I can't rewire the resistor.[/quote]
Sorry forgot to mention you'd need an adjustable fpr. I thought I typed it but I guess I didn't.
I ran Evo 560s at 56 psi base pressure for 5 years. I have the walbro 435lph pump and an AEM regulator. I was running 15-18psi of boost, so I was getting up to 74psi and flowing 640cc per injector.
Sorry forgot to mention you'd need an adjustable fpr. I thought I typed it but I guess I didn't.
I ran Evo 560s at 56 psi base pressure for 5 years. I have the walbro 435lph pump and an AEM regulator. I was running 15-18psi of boost, so I was getting up to 74psi and flowing 640cc per injector.
Chr15t0ph3r85: YES
Chr15t0ph3r85: GOOO STATE
Re: Mitsubishi Mighty Max
Update:
Rewired the injectors to accept the TT resistor. See picture below. You can see where i bridged over to the resistor and then back over to the original harness on the left. Boy does the truck run better. It idles smoother as well as cleaned up the poor throttle response on the top end.
Current engine bay.
Here is a crappy picture of the SS dump pipe i tied the 95 SR downpipe collector and my MM catback with. Ill put a link to what it is below. Grabbed it at Summit Racing a few weeks back at 1/2 off. Looks to be a pretty solid unit.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ ... /overview/
Taking her out for a spin to Summit Racing. Truck ran pretty well except it felt like my brakes were dragging. Turns out I forgot i left the E-brake partially on. Ran like a champ after. Also, hooked up my Wideband and checked to make sure things looked good. Under full throttle I get 12.5-13.2 AFR's IIRC. Not bad but pretty rich. Also i believe the timing is of by a bit, probably needs to be advanced a bit. Makes a drone sound under load. Ill have to log it to be sure.
Here is a video of where I am currently.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjHq-VSls-w
PS, which pins/circuit do we use for tieing in the o2 to datalogg?
Rewired the injectors to accept the TT resistor. See picture below. You can see where i bridged over to the resistor and then back over to the original harness on the left. Boy does the truck run better. It idles smoother as well as cleaned up the poor throttle response on the top end.
Current engine bay.
Here is a crappy picture of the SS dump pipe i tied the 95 SR downpipe collector and my MM catback with. Ill put a link to what it is below. Grabbed it at Summit Racing a few weeks back at 1/2 off. Looks to be a pretty solid unit.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ ... /overview/
Taking her out for a spin to Summit Racing. Truck ran pretty well except it felt like my brakes were dragging. Turns out I forgot i left the E-brake partially on. Ran like a champ after. Also, hooked up my Wideband and checked to make sure things looked good. Under full throttle I get 12.5-13.2 AFR's IIRC. Not bad but pretty rich. Also i believe the timing is of by a bit, probably needs to be advanced a bit. Makes a drone sound under load. Ill have to log it to be sure.
Here is a video of where I am currently.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjHq-VSls-w
PS, which pins/circuit do we use for tieing in the o2 to datalogg?
Re: Mitsubishi Mighty Max
You can tie into the manifold pressure sensor for now. I think they got rid of EGR temp in 98.
Have you tried wiring up the tach yet? I've been pondering how that's going to work after going from one coil to three. Or six.
Have you tried wiring up the tach yet? I've been pondering how that's going to work after going from one coil to three. Or six.
I think about all the things we could have done, all the miracles we could have achieved, if we were all just a little bit better than it turns out we are.
--Naomi Nagata
--Naomi Nagata
Re: Mitsubishi Mighty Max
I just need the signal wire for that correct?
I tried to tie in the tach but no luck so far. The montero harness I spliced for the PtU has a couple leads that come off of it for not only the ecu, but I assumed the tach in cab. So far I haven't found a way to make it work.
I tried to tie in the tach but no luck so far. The montero harness I spliced for the PtU has a couple leads that come off of it for not only the ecu, but I assumed the tach in cab. So far I haven't found a way to make it work.
Re: Mitsubishi Mighty Max
I'm not sure if the pulse coming out of the PTU is the same as the stock Max setup. The Max is wired more or less directly to the output of the coil, which fires 6 times per rotation. If the PTU only outputs a signal every time the #1 coil fires, then that's only once per rotation. It's probably too low to drive the cluster.
I've got some ideas for a workaround, but it's going to require more parts and possibly modding the cluster. I haven't done much work on it because I've got about a hundred other things I need to do first.
I've got some ideas for a workaround, but it's going to require more parts and possibly modding the cluster. I haven't done much work on it because I've got about a hundred other things I need to do first.
I think about all the things we could have done, all the miracles we could have achieved, if we were all just a little bit better than it turns out we are.
--Naomi Nagata
--Naomi Nagata
