Mitsubishi Mighty Max

[DCIV]

[quote=""Jeff V.""]For the record, I'm not blaming Greg and I'm not saying I deserve a parade and medals. But Adam really misrepresented how that went down. It's especially galling since he had a front row seat to the long conversations we had on the topic on this board.

Oh well. Moving on to more important things...it looks like we should have looked into Toyota 1UZ engines before going down this 6G7 road [/quote]

Please elaborate on the Toyota part.


Coop

[Jeff V.]

Imagine 500+hp truck builds. Woot!

I'd rather not. This truck is a tin can.

Please elaborate on the Toyota part.

You can put a Toyota/Lexus 1UZ-FE DOHC V8 into a Montero with about as much work as we're going to do putting newer 6G7s into our trucks.

[DCIV]

Really?! What do they do about the ecu, wiring harness, speedo, gauges?


Coop

[Jeff V.]

I didn't know this before, but apparently there's a pretty big aftermarket for that engine. Including complete harnesses and standalone ECUs.

[DCIV]

Do you happen to know if they have a website that they sell this stuff or if it's more people on the forum selling it? Just wanted to look at costs. Does the auto trans hold the torque of the v8?


Coop

[Jeff V.]

The 3.5 Montero and the V8 Toyotas use the same Aisin transmission. So you keep your Montero trans and transfer case adapter, and just bolt the Toyota engine, torque converter and bell housing to that trans.

That's all I know. If you want to know anything more, you'll need to start digging into it yourself.

[ChargerX3]

Update:

See pictures below...










It fits...and the hood clears! I did have my fair bit of challenges getting it to fit though.

[DCIV]

Can't see since we arnt Facebook friends.


Coop

[ChargerX3]

Fixed broken links.

[vr4]

I love it

[J-Groove]

WOW!!!!!

That is awesome!
-John

[DCIV]

Amazing! How long till you can drive it?


Coop

[ChargerX3]

Thanks guys. I'm hoping not long. It really comes down to electrical and a few mechanical things. Then I have to tune it. Hopefully she is running in the next few weeks.

[Jeff V.]

Electrical is going to be the hard part. I really think you should consider pulling the harness from a 97-00 3.5L full size Montero to use as a donor. This would be perfect:

http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/JA4MR51R2XJ003479

The Max harness is just going to require too much rework to use with this engine and ECU.

[ChargerX3]

Why are you thinking its too much work?

Ive already got most of a 3s harness and my two Montero harnesses 95 and 01. Ive already wired in the new MAF. Ive also pulled the max harness through the firewall, so access is right there.

Last time I looked into the Montero harness swap, i realized there was much more work to be done than I wanted to. Dont forget the drivers side which will be a pita, and all the new fuse boxes and junctions that i have no real place for. I really dont mind wiring in the roughly dozen or so wires I will need to complete the circuits. Unless im missing something?

[Jeff V.]

Here's the things you need to add that are not present in your Max harness.

Ignition PTU
3 ignition coils
Cam and crank sensors vs distributor
Knock sensor
Whatever solution we find for the MIVEC

Then there's the stuff you don't need, but might want
Additional O2 sensors
Smog solenoids
Different ISC connector depending on which throttle body you use

You can hack all that into the existing harness, but it's going to be a rats nest of splices and adapters. The biggest problem is going to be the ignition and knock circuits. The ignition circuit is going to require a lot of splices, and the knock circuit needs shielded wiring.

That Montero doesn't have the knock circuit either, so that's a problem either way.

I'll do my best to help you no matter which path you ultimately decide on. I just want to make my concerns known before we go too far down the path.

[ChargerX3]

Taken in to consideration. I really do appreciate your help thus far with all the electrical.

Ill probably be bugging you a bit later this week as I dive back in the the wiring side of things. As we discussed I will be tapping into the existing PTU line for the 3 new ones. I really hope the cam sensor is correct because I will have to pull the motor again to make any sort of swap. Knock sensor shouldn't be too bad, I think my 3s harness has that one still. I will save the MIVEC for last as the motor will run fine without it until I can get a decent tune going.

I dont know about your truck, but mine only has one narrow band o2. I believe that is sufficient correct? Cant you turn off the second one in Chrome? Dont need smog solenoids. I am using the 95 SR TB. Its the same size as the 3s and runs the same ISC. Ill need to wire in a power steering switch, AC switch #2 I think, Oil pressure, PTU mess, possibly new coolant line too.

Ill have to dive into it some more to verify, but I think that is the majority of it.

[Jeff V.]

FYI, I'm going to be out at the Grand Canyon and in Las Vegas from Wed through Mon for Vira's birthday. Feel free to text me if you need anything, but I might not be able to give you detailed answers until we get back.

O2s can be disabled in Chrome or whatever custom ROM we end up cooking up. I might try to run 2 sensors in my truck just to be able to do per-bank fuel trimming. We'll see.

One other thing to consider is even if you have sensors that already exist in the Max harness, do they have the correct connectors?

[ChargerX3]

Great, hope you guys have fun. Ill try not to bother you...too much. Might bug you before then to get a head start.

Yea, I might go back and eventually put the second one in, but for now I can tune with the one. At this moment I only have 1 o2 bung location and it is right after the Y. I will need to tap and weld more locations for the additional narrow band and for my wide band.

You are correct. Not all the connectors are correct, like the dizzy, a coolant temp, ignition (PTU, coils), but im ok with cutting, soldering, and heat shrinking them, so they work correctly.

[Jeff V.]

Some of them may use the correct pins with a different housing. Before you cut too much, see if you can back the pins out. There's usually a either plastic locking tang you can lift up, or a metal tang on the pin that you can push down on.

Find an old windshield wiper and remove the metal reinforcing strip from inside it. Grind it down to fit inside the connector and then stick the other end in a wine cork. Makes for a great connector disassembly tool